Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Here Come The Camellias

Just a quick note that here in Vernon Parish, Louisiana the very first Camellia has bloomed. Ok, it may not be the first in the parish, but it is definitely the first in my yard. It is also the only one, however the bush is full of buds.
Now I know that one camellia is not a big deal and even if everyone had a bush in their yard it still wouldn't qualify as a honey flow, but it is indeed a really good pollen source for this time of year. Last year this very bush bloomed right up to the first week in January. And the bees really worked the pollen on it every warm day they had a chance. This tells me that it might be good to plant more of these bushes. Maybe even gift a few to the neighbors. I don't know about whether it's a nectar producer. 
Anyway, its another addition to the bloom diary. Go plant some camellias!

Sunday, October 27, 2019

When Should I Start Putting Out Swarm Traps?


Good Sunday Evening! I see on different bee forums online that people want to know when is the best time to put out swarm traps. Before I answer that question I want to remind you that beekeeping suggestions are always subject to your location. Always remember that beekeeping is local! But for the answer to the question at hand, my answer is that its best to keep baited swarm traps out all year long. Why? For me there are several reasons. The main one for me is because where I live in West Central Louisiana we have fairly short and mild winters. Some are shorter and milder than others. I have talked to some folks here in the state that have caught swarms in December and January that did quite well on there own the next year. For a swarm caught that time I might recommend pouring a bag of sugar in the trap to help ensure their survival.
So, all that said, I am placing swarm traps now, baited with pure lemongrass oil, and will be checking them every couple of weeks. How many should you put out? Well, that depends on you really, but I put out twice as many traps as what I hope to catch. That means if you are hoping to catch 10 wild swarms, you need to put out 20 traps. Just my opinion, but its better to catch too many colonies than not enough. Odds are in the south you will catch a couple of swarms per year per trap, so make sure you've got adequate hives built for them.
This year I am putting out five bar Kenyan Top-Bar swarm traps. I plan to leave them out permanently, therefore when I check them every couple of weeks I'll be bringing there forever homes with me and just swapping out top bars and rebaiting with lemongrass oil. 
Another question you may be asking is "Where do you put these traps?" Anywhere I can. I do try to keep them at least 5 miles from the Bee Farm. The reason for this is so they don't try to find where they came from and go back. I've had this happen before, and before I could go back and get them again the water meter reader had sprayed them and killed them. So 5 plus miles is what I try to do. As far as locations, I place them in wooded areas on the highway right-of-way, or private land owners property (with the landowners permission), along dirt roads, the edge of pipelines or power transmission lines. If you'll notice in the pictures I'll label them so that people wandering up on them will know what they are and that they are regularly checked along with my phone number in case there is a problem with their location. Most people are honest and mature enough not to mess with them. Oh, and yes, I put some on the ground. The bees don't care, and i'm too fat and lazy to be carrying ladders around with me in the woods.. I've had luck with doing that on the farm so I'll let you know how it works in the woods. I don't foresee any issues with it though. That's all for now. Happy beekeeping!

Thursday, October 24, 2019

Sea Myrtle is Blooming!

So I'm calling today the official opening day of the Sea Myrtle here at West LA Bee Farm. It's been threatening to bloom for awhile now, but today it looks workable by the bees. Of course as long as there is Goldenrod blooming the bees won't really get too excited about the Sea Myrtle. 

Speaking of bees, they have been incredibly busy. I can see why. There seems to be a really good flow going on here. The goldenrod has been in bloom here for three weeks and looks to have 7 to 10 days left. The coreopsis maybe even longer.

Here's a look at todays Goldenrod. You can see that much is played out. What you don't see in this pic is that there are as many new blooms today, and some that still haven't opened yet. 

Until next update, God bless!

Wednesday, October 9, 2019

Swarm Commander Product Review





This is a video I did for a website I used to have. I recently disbanded that website, but kept this particular product review because the stuff is just so dang effective! Watch as I show you how to catch FREE BEES and then place them in a Kenyan Top-Bar hive. You can get Swarm Commander at this link with FREE SHIPPING https://amzn.to/2H3fz6U Try it out! This stuff really works!!

Monday, October 7, 2019

October 7, 2019 Bee Removal

I'm not a big fan of doing bee removals so late in the year. Too many things can go wrong with the colony, but this was a strong colony so maybe they'll be ok. I was surprised just how much brood there was and how little food stores there were for this time of year. The fall flow has started only a week ago, but I still thought a feral colony would be backfilling the brood nest by now.
In doing this removal I never saw the queen. It was dark in the little building and my eyes aren't that great anyway. All in all I think it'll work out either way. I did get a bunch of brood and my colonies here on the farm still have drones, so if I did miss the queen or she got squashed in the process they have time to make a new and still get bred.

The video is of the entire removal. I sped it up, but if you just want to see me putting them in the box at the bee farm then skip ahead to 11:04. If you see anything I'm needing to correct in my removal please let me know. I'm new at removals so any advice would be welcomed. Thank you and I hope you enjoy the video.

Sunday, October 6, 2019

How To Make A Comfort Hive


In this video I show you how to actually build a Comfort Hive box complete with top-bars. In my opinion there is no better hive to get started in beekeeping. You can build this hive from bottom board to top box and cover for $30-$40. Compared to $200 from beekeeping supply houses I see no better way to get started. Watch the video and then follow the link below to be sure to get the correct skewers as getting the incorrect skewers could cause you quite a bit of trouble and frustration.
 These are the skewers you need for the Comfort Hive

I forgot to mention the spacing of the skewers. They need to be spaced at 1 1/4 inches to the center of each skewer.

Thursday, October 3, 2019

How To Make Money With Honey Bees

Image by Thomas Völcker from Pixabay

For most of my life I was both amazed and fearful of honey bees. For that matter, I have always been fearful of anything with a stinger. When I decided to take up beekeeping as a hobby part of my decision was to help me conquer my fear of THE STING. I would love to sit here today and tell you I did that very thing, but I can't. At least not entirely. I still hold a bit more than a healthy fear of the sting, but I don't have near the problem with it that I had when I started keeping bees. Someday I hope to be free, but for now I will still don my beesuit about 50% of the time depending on weather, time of day, and what I'll be doing in the hive.

Even though getting over my fear of "the sting" was a big factor in getting into beekeeping, it is not what has kept me in beekeeping. After a few months of learning all I could about the bees I began to see much more than just getting a little honey from the bees. I started researching the health benefits of the products the bees made. The list is much longer than just honey and wax. MUCH LONGER! I started seeing the need for more beekeepers. There is just too much demand for the products and not nearly enough suppliers. But just try to get a straight answer from a beekeeper about how much money can be made in beekeeping. I guess like any business people are always afraid of competition. I kinda see this whole beekeeping thing differently than others. I see it as having such a broad range of opportunities that even if everyone got involved it would actually be able to support everyone that wanted to pursue the opportunities. Maybe I'm crazy. Maybe I'm not. So in this blog I'm going to share with you some of what beekeepers do to earn a living with honey bees.


1. Make Money With Honey

Almost everyone gets into beekeeping in hopes of harvesting the sweet stuff. If you look online and try to determine how much honey you can harvest from one hive per year you will get dozens of different responses. Why? Because there are way too many variables to consider when asking the question. Things like location, strength of the colony, length of the season, age of the queen, management of the hive, weather, and many other things can contribute to how well a colony does in a year. Lets just say that you have a good colony and all factors are at least average for the first year. You may get as much as 100 lbs of honey. Honey sells at $8 a pound. Some folks get even more. It all depends on how you market your honey and how well you can educate your customer on the benefits of the honey.  Lets just keep it at $8 per pound for this discussion. Lets also assume you are going to sell all of your harvest. You just made $800 for giving the bees a home and receiving honey for rent. Not bad!

2. Wax

There is an old saying in beekeeping that for every 8 pounds of honey you will get one pound of wax. I don't know if this is accurate, but for this article we are just gonna roll with it. So now we know how much wax the hive in #1 is going to make. Lets just round it off to 12 pounds. How much you can sell that wax for is laced with many variables. To name a few are color, chemical free hive, purity and refinement. Just with these the price range could be $4-$15 per pound. Depending on the time of year, availability, and your customer it could sell higher. Just for fun we're gonna stick with $850 per pound. So our hive has now made $102 worth of wax. We now have a total profit of $902 from our bee biz.

3. Pollen

If you are a beekeeper more than a few minutes someone is gonna ask you if you sell pollen. I promise you this will happen eventually. There are many reasons why people want the pollen. Just google it and you will see. Pollen is a great money maker, and it is not too difficult to collect. The biggest problem with it is you have to be careful not to collect too much or it could do severe damage to your colony. You could actually kill them if you collect too much. They need it to raise their young. If their young don't survive, the colony doesn't survive. This process needs to be watched closely, thus the high price for pollen. So how much pollen can you collect from a hive? I would say that you could safely collect 20 pounds in a season. That is the entire season though. I would strongly advise against trying to collect more than that in a season from one hive, and you need to be certain that the one hive is very very strong. Because pollen is so crucial to the bees and it does take a lot of attention to make certain not to take too much the price is high. You can expect to get anywhere from $10-$20 per pound for the pollen. We'll split the difference and call it $15 per pound. There you have another $300 from your bees. Let's move on to the next product.

4. Propolis

What in the world is PROPOLIS??? Well, let me tell you. It is as sticky as chewing gum on your shoe sole. No kidding, and it is just about the same consistency. Bees make this sticky mess by retrieving sap from trees along with other oils and fats that they can find, add a bit of their own spit, chew it up and spit it out all over the inside of the hive. They use it to seal drafts in the hive, kill germs with its antibacterial properties, make medicine for the baby nursery, and God knows what else. It has recently become a huge demand item from the hive because  people are finding that it contains big health benefits for humans. Some have even mentioned it as being central in healing certain cancers. No scientific proof of this as of yet, but it has been said. So how much for this sticky stuff? Currently it is selling like crazy at and average price of $10 per ounce! Look around on the internet and you'll see. I can promise you one thing, this price will go up as soon as medical research starts confirming a few of the things it is purported to accomplish. But how much can you collect in a season? Keep in mind there are certain strains of bees that will produce this stuff in abundance, and some who don't really seem to know how to make it. We're gonna say we harvest 20 ounces this year, at $10 per ounce that's another $200 from the hive. So in hive products alone we have managed to earn $1402 for the year. But wait, there's more!

5. Pollination

Did you know that over 2 million hives are shipped out to the west coast each year just to pollinate the almond trees growing there? Did you know that the beekeepers who own those hives are paid well for making sure the bees are available for this? I've done little research on this topic, but I've done enough to know that some companies are paying good money for this. I won't get into the actual numbers here because I don't participate in this end of the industry, but I do know that it is very lucrative. You can do your own research on this to get the details on it for yourself, just know that the opportunity is out there.

6. Queens

Yes that's right, you can purchase your very own queen right from the interwebs! All you need is a credit card and a mailing address. Many of the larger pollination operations are in constant need of queen breeders. $40 per queen seems to be a good average price for a queen. Yes, that's right, $40 for one bug. How many can you produce? Some people are selling a couple thousand a year. There is a company in Hawaii that is selling 3 million queens a year. Do you think there might be a market for queens? I do...

7. Bees

Last but not least...bees. You can sell a colony of bees to other beekeepers. You can sell them in packages of two or three pounds. These usually go for about $150 to $175 per package. Or you can sell them as a nucleus colony, or "nuc" for short. This is a predetermined amount of frames filled with honeycomb, honey, brood in all stages, covered with bees, and a queen. This is the very best way to buy bees. People will drive for hours to purchase bees from the most local supplier. Locally acquired bees are usually acclimated to the area better than bees that are shipped in from another state. Bees are very sensitive to climate changes and moving them too far could kill them. Buy local as best you can. Nucs can be sold very easily at $200 to $250 dollars. The reason for the higher price is simple. You are getting an already established colony that does not have to wait to build comb before the queen can begin laying. There is not only strength in numbers, but when it comes to buying bees there is also value in numbers.

I hope this article has been helpful to you. Please consider getting into beekeeping. It is possibly one of the most rewarding thing you could ever do. God bless!

Wednesday, October 2, 2019

White Clover and Honey Bees


Image by CathyUser from Pixabay

I need to correct myself. Back a few days ago I made a video talking about a technique that could possibly help to increase your nectar flow and in the process I said something that I have since learned is incorrect. I said that even if you have an acre of clover growing in your yard it will not increase your honey production much, if any at all. Well, guess what! I was wrong!! Turns out that leaving your clover filled yard uncut could in fact impact your honey yield. And quite nicely.

 I have been doing some reading from different studies done on clover by different universities. Here are just a few of the universities I have read studies from:
     1. Louisiana State University
     2. Texas A&M
     3. University of California
     4. Mississippi State
These are just a few of them, but they are the main ones I gleaned good relevant info from. I found the information so enlightening, especially how it pertains to my earlier post, that I wanted to share it with you here.

This Might Not Pertain To You

This article may actually not pertain to you if you are a commercial beekeeper. If you are running 400+ colonies at one location you may indeed need to pursue different options such as feeding sugar water. This article is geared towards the new beekeeper and the smaller operator. I cannot accurately put a number on the amount of hives you can run and still see an impact, but I will say that the amount of production per acre is significant enough that you will at least be able to stop putting money into so much sugar for feeding. 
Also, if you are running 2-10 hives at your place and are convinced that you need to feed your bees sugar water because you read it in a book or you saw some guy on YouTube feeding his bees sugar water, please consider that persons situation. Many of the guys writing books and making YouTube videos are running many hundreds if not many thousands of hives and feeding is necessary for their situation. You do not need to purchase sugar to feed your bees except in emergency situations. I will talk about those situations at a later time in another post. For now I think it is very important that you always remember that beekeeping 20 miles from you in any direction has different requirements than beekeeping on your property. 
All in all I believe that the info in this post can be helpful to any and all beekeepers no matter how big they get,  but I am not one to say that my way is the best way, nor the only way to do it. I am merely making observations and suggestions. I could very well be wrong. Take what you can. 

How You Can Stop Feeding Bees

This writer is assuming that you have at least an acre or two of land available. I know it is not unusual for people to keep bees on a much smaller setting, but I feel that the majority of beekeepers, at least those that are local to me, have a couple of acres at their disposal. This is in no way an attempt to exclude anyone on small lots. There are ways you too can participate in what I am explaining. You may just need to get creative. 
My recent research has changed my thinking on clover, specifically Dutch Clover. It is a real treasure for the bees as well as the beekeeper. One acre of clover can produce 250 to 500 pounds of honey per growing season. Now if you are selling your honey at $8 per pound, a fair price in my opinion, one acre of land planted in clover should yield a beekeeper about $4000 in a year. There are many variables to this like wind, rainfall amounts, colony buildup, competing forage and so forth. 
The amount of extra forage this gives the bees is only a part of its impact on the colony.  Keep in mind that the honey bee works herself to death....literally! How? By constantly traveling large distances to gather her payload and bring it back to the hive. I live on just a few acres of land. I have not yet planted clover here and there is little to no forage on my land except during to fall flow which has just started. About a mile away there is a 100 acre field that is normally covered in clover in the Spring. My bees will fly that mile several times a day to get their payload of nectar and then carry it back to the hive. Although this is productive, it is not as efficient as they could be given better opportunity. Lets just say that one bee can make 5 trips a day to the field a mile away. The average lifespan of a honey bee during the nectar flow is about 5 weeks. Bees are not inherently lazy therefore they never take a day off. Now I'm gonna be real liberal here and say that the entire five weeks of life is spent just foraging for nectar. This is not reality, but for this scenario we will let it be. If our little honey bee makes 5 trips a day for her entire life and is not interrupted by high winds or rain she will have made 125 trips with a payload for the colony. A honey bee can carry as much as 100mg of nectar, but she has to consume some for fuel. She actually leaves the hive with only enough honey in her crop to fuel her trip. Once to the clover field she will start filling her tank full to the 100mg maximum. Then, once full, she starts her trip back to the hive consuming some of her payload along the way for flight fuel. By the time she returns she will only have 20-60mg left to convert to honey. In this case where she is flying a mile away she will likely have about 50-60mg left as her total payload. Keep in mind bees will forage for many miles. The further they go, the more they will use.
So that scenario is not the most efficient. The most efficient use of their short life will not only give the bees more maxed out payloads, it may even lengthen their lives by a week or two which will in turn increase hive strength giving you more field bees to bring in more food stores. How do you make their work more efficient? By planting clover over your unused acreage. Yes it is true that if you have enough bees in the area they will exhaust those resources fairly early in the day, but at least they had those close resources to gather first thing before going greater distances in search of food. And if you are running only a handful of hives they may not exhaust a couple of acres before the clover that was hit first thing in the morning secretes new nectar creating a loop effect and giving the bees another round of high quality food for their efforts. 

A Remarkable Symbiosis

The relationship between honey bees and clover is truly remarkable. They literally need each other for survival long term. Although honey bees can exist without clover, their existence is greatly improved when clover is available. But for clover, pollination by honey bees or other insect pollinators is imperative. Without it they cease to thrive. I have actually witnessed clover completely disappear from our local fields once the honey bees disappeared. 
Let me share with you how this came about. Back in the 1970's when I was a young boy I remember there being all sorts of bees here where I grew up. I still live on the land where I grew up 40+ years later. There were honey bees here in the area. They were mostly wild although a neighbor less than a mile away was a beekeeper of a single colony. You could walk out in the woods and find bees in trees on a regular basis. The cattle pastures were all full of clover. White, red, and yellow clovers were everywhere. They may have indeed been planted at some point, but for the most part they would reseed themselves because of the bee population in the area. 
Then, by the late 1980's and into the 1990's the bees just kind of disappeared from the area. Along with them I noticed that the clover was not growing in the fields as much. It was once even abundant on the roadsides, but that too was disappearing. Now, it is nearly nonexistent. You may see a patch here and there, but it is not like it once was. At one time it was everywhere. So what happened and why?
I have my thoughts on what happened to the bees. I personally think it had a lot to do with the timber companies. They spray pesticides over the pine forests these days to reduce the competition given to the young trees by the underbrush. Underbrush that would otherwise be forage for the honey bee. No forage = no wild bees. Another possibility is that the logging companies are added competition for the bees in that bees like to find old hollowed out trees to live in. These days trees in the wild are harvested younger and younger reducing the availability of shelter for wild bees. I am not against logging or the timber industry. I just am explaining what I  see as being a small part of a much bigger problem with the bees. 
Now, why did the clover seemingly disappear with the disappearance of the bees? Simply put, if the honey bees (the most effective pollinator of the clover) are diminished, the clove will in turn diminish. It has to be pollinated in order to give off fertile seed. If the seeds are not fertile, they will not germinate and grow. It is a slow process, but this is how it seems to play out. First, the bees leave the area. They leave behind other pollinators that can do the job, such as bumble bees, but they are not as thorough as the honey bees. Lets just say that they may be only half as effective in their pollination efforts. That means next year you can expect a 50% germination rate, meaning that only half of the clover is reseeded. Repeat this for a few years and eventually there is not enough clover flowering to attract any of the insect pollinators resulting in the clover dying of never returning until someone like you decides to start planting it from seed. This is exactly why the relationship between clover and honey bees is so remarkable!

What You Can Do

I am going to repeat something I have said on a previous post. You can improve your forage in your area, and I don't care where it is you live, there are still opportunities.
If you are a beekeeper you really need to consider keeping a few pounds of  clover seed on hand. This is what I recommend:
Outsidepride White Dutch Clover Seed: Nitro-Coated, Inoculated - 5 LBS

And here is what you can do. For clover to germinate properly the temps need to be in the sixties. It will germinate in a wide range of temps, but the lower 60's are preferable. I recently got some advice from an old farmer at a feed store. He told me that here in my part of Louisiana clover needs to be broadcast planted starting in the last week of September through October and all the way up until the first frost. Here that can be anywhere from late October all the way to December. You can also plant it in the Spring when the temps are getting right again. The old man didn't advise me on Spring planting.
You should also try to plant it right before a rain. You don't want to broadcast your seed only to give ants and other bugs several days or weeks to carry it away and end up with one big spot of clover growing in your field, that spot being where the ants stored it in their mound. It is and has been extremely dry here. I am planting it in my field in an area that can be watered by a sprinkler for a week, then moving the sprinkler to another spot and planting that area, watering it for a week. I'll keep doing this until the first frost, or until I have planted my entire 10 pounds of seed. Keep in mind if you decide to do this a pound of clover seed is enough to cover a few thousand square feet. And as long as you have honey bees it will spread by seed each year due to their pollination.
If you don't have a large yard or any amount of acreage to start this on your own property, start looking at other options. I talked about this in another post, but consider highway and backroad easements. The sides of these roads are usually maintained by the state or county. Clover is the only seed I recommend distributing on the roadways. I do not recommend doing this without checking with the DOT(Department of Transportation) in you area about the legality of broadcasting seed on the roadsides, but I don't see why they would have a problem with it. You also need to consider your safety along the roadsides. I just think that the roadsides give you miles of acreage that you can put to use for your bees even if you don't have acreage of your own.
Another way to accomplish getting some clover established in your area is to go to neighbors who do have acreage and ask them to consider letting you distribute some seed in their fields. Its always good to have some bribe-honey on hand when asking for these types of things.
If you live in town and there is limited area for you to do this there may not be a need for you to fret about it. I find that beekeepers living in town usually have good forage for bees. Nearly every home in a neighborhood has landscaping and flowerbeds. This gives your bees plenty of forage. Many times while other beekeepers are in a nectar dearth you city-dwellers will still have some exotic flowerbed forage for your bees. But, if you still want to find places to distribute clover your best bet will be looking for vacant lots and finding out who owns them. This could be as simple as asking the owners of the adjacent lot or as difficult as going to the courthouse and looking it up in their files.
I think I have given you enough information here to get you started. Get creative with finding places to distribute your clover seed.

One Last Thing

In your quest to establish new clover forage, don't be discouraged  by the price of clover seed. Yes it can be expensive, especially when looking at planting large areas. There are things you need to consider when planting your seed that may not be at the forefront of your mind right now. You do not need to cover an entire area with seed. Keep in mind that with the relationship the bees have with the clover in pollination, your clover should get pollinated therefore making viable seeds for next year helping the clover to spread into larger patches. Granted, you are not going to "cover the planet in clover", nor should you want to, but you can permanently reduce the amount of feeding you are doing and you can put this into motion for next year RIGHT NOW!
You also don't need to concern yourself too much with the cost of clover seed because it is very reasonable to collect the flowers and distribute them by the bag full in new unseeded areas. For those who are conscious of cost this process should be very appealing. But remember, no matter how you proceed just get started. Plant some clover this Fall. Plant some more next Spring. Feed your bees naturally!

DID I MISS SOMETHING? DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION?

LEAVE A COMMENT BELOW!

EDIT: The argument that deer forage on clover and that would encourage them to come to the roadside can be made. I personally think it lacks merit since deer in this area forage along the roads every night. Still, you may want to factor this into your decision making. 

How To Build A Pollen Trap For A Comfort Hive For Less That $5

I'm gonna show you a very simple and inexpensive pollen trap. This trap is to be used on Comfort Hives, Top-Bar hives, or any hive with ...